Thursday, April 30, 2009

Fashion Week . . the real summer trends so far . . .

Sure, there are seemingly a million tweeterers twitting their ways in and out of the fashion week precinct in Sydney, but behind the smoke, the mirrors and a billion images on TV, on the web and in the papers, what do YOU all get out of it?

From marie claire to Grazia, Vogue and Harper's, I am alert, but not yet alarmed at the possible incidences of fashion-related RSI (of the thumb) that may have publishing houses hit with compo claims up the wha-zoo.

But hey, in these troubled financial times, most of the fashion-fries would do their jobs for just about nothing, as long as the steady line of GWA's (gifts with attendance) keep rolling in.

I've really liked the vibe of fashion week this season. The fourteenth by the way, all of which I have reported on. It's been business-like, but still with an element of show biz. Thank god.

It's classic (think luscious Lisa Ho and Jayson Brunsdon) and still a bit kooky (the TV label and Romance Was Born's octopus-inspired hood put paid to that); it's fashion-forward (Dion Lee and Kirrilly Johnston) while it is still a great way to showcase fashion newbies (Julie Grbac, Magdalena Velevska and Illionaire.)

I've loved watching the show ponies papped as they get hoarded into the off-site venues and the two large showrooms down at the Overseas Passenger Terminal in Sydney. Have watched in awe as fash-mag fashion room assistants teeter (as they twitter) around in the $2K champagne-priced shoes when they're on middy beer budgets and marveled at how just about everyone has suddenly become an expert on the subject of what does and what doesn't sell in the frock department. Not forgetting make-up experts to as they determine which MAC colored lippie will work 'back' best with latest Balmain-inspired jacket.

The RAFW liquid refreshment bar, namely Rosemount, who is the naming sponsor to the entire week, hence the "R" in RAFW (Rosemount Australain Fashion Week) has been a buzzy little place this season. But not to the point, like in previous years, when people had to plied out, as pissed as, well you know what, at the end of the night.

Let's face it, there has been some pretty spicy competition across the road (well, the harbor anyway) in the Bridge Bar at an Absolut-themed bar, where various after show parties (from Wayne Cooper and an exhibit of works from the DLM agency) have been trawling in the cool-skool set to showcase their various takes on the ubiquitous voddie.

Kristy Hinze was at the Rosemount Bar last night for a minute, flying off to Melbourne today before she begins her Project Runway duties and presents a Log-wah on Sunday night with Jennifer Hawkins. It's the big one to the best bloke actor, methinks. Hot chicks + hot boys = perfect tv combination.

But hold on. What you really want to know are what our designers have done to their collections, enough of which to entice you to spend up big once they actually hit the stores, just in time for next spring and summer.

We're really at the pointy end of the week. The realistic side of it. The trends. Those little points of difference that are hoping to entice you to fork out part of your pay packet so you will look fashion 'now' not fashion 'then'.

Here's my current rundown:

*You're hearing a lot about Balmain aren't you? The 64 year old French fashion house (founded by Pierre Balmain and revitalised by Christophe Decarnin a few years ago) championed the wider, shoulder line in its collection winter collection shown in Paris a few months ago) so sure enough, many Balmain-inspired pieces have been seen, with that signature extended shoulder line (think Dynasty's Crystle Carrington) being the shape to watch.

*There's been a simply 'pretty' vibe in pieces, in subdued/vintage-like pastel palettes, which could be a fashion reaction to the sobriety of recession.

*Super skinny pants (like Sass & Bide's 'Rats' black leggings from last year) where everywhere. The skinnier, the tighter and the shinier the better. But if you can't cope with those, go the haren path - if you dare.

*Intricate detailing has been seen on the super-skinnies too - a perfect caramel colored pair was seen at the Zimmermann show

*The sale of sheer, silk chiffon must have gone through the roof with this perfect fabric the best way for hot Aussie chick to look cool and stay cool

*The same fabric was seen in long, flowing often pleated skirts (some of those worn with shorts underneath), sheer shirts (the best black one from Dion Lee) and Willow, whose ethereal designs took on an even stronger, tougher vibe this season.

*If you have wondered what you shoud do with that crocheted rug tha's been the end of your childhood bed for years (and is still on your grandma's) Romance Was Born (a fave label of the Sydney Theatre Company and Cate Blanchett, so much so so, they are working on a show for the STC) created, amongs other amazinginlty theatrical pieces) a constructured crocheted dress and a mega, matching bag, leading to the headline website Nana Glamor (on the www.news.com.au site)

*Jumpsuits - why am i thinking 70s Charlie's Angel, Jaclyn Smith when I think of these?

*The small military vibe is a continuation of the Balmain effect - watch out for epaulettes and cropped, visible buttoned jackets

*Bold colors weren't as visible as previous seasons although the brilliant orange from Kirrilly Johnston and splashes of brights from Ginger & Smart gave us a jolt

*And the biggest trend so far? Twittering. God knows what our 'newest' social media du jour will be next year.

Speak soon . . .

Missy x

it's fashion week, but logies are looming too

ninemsn Video

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Jayson the man!

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Silk gown by jb

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Mint green brunsdon

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Jen hawkins

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Patty, emily and hornery

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Brunsdon

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Mr and mrs brunsdon

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Sunrise babe Mel doylr and hubbir john doyle font row at fashion week

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Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Finale

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Misonni

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Alice mccall

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Kate syllvester

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Marnie skillings

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Romance was born

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Alex perry

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Willlow

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David and mel doyle et diet coke show

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Lights, camera, no action . . . Oh, no power . .

To most of us, Balmain used to be a lovely suburb in the inner western suburbs of Sydney.
From now, 'Bal-ma' (that's how it is pronounced in French, fyi) will be the name on every one's shoulders as one helluva lot of Aussie designers are using the French houses's extended shoulder line as inspiration for their own collections.
But that's fashion for you. Not style, but fashion for you.
Pick a trend, any trend and it's bound to eventually come back. Hey, let's bring back the jumpsuit (oh, it already is); the slouchy poo-catcher 'pant' (they are too); the denim jacket (it's never gone anywhere).
Anyway you get the picture and on that note I am predicting a solid return of the velour v-neck, the skort (a skirt and short all in one thing) and fingerless gloves. Well my son has some with skulls on them, so he's got where fashion's heading . . .
Back to fashion week and we're just half way through day two and I've already been to tv land this morning to have a face applied; seen a simply strong and splendid show from Dion Lee (see my twitter posts for my feeble attempts at shooting models on the hop); endured a CBD power outage. (must have been all those GHD hair straighteners being used at the same time and enjoyed a simply pretty, girly and also very grown-up collection from Zimmermann.
The power failure sent shivers up the spine and right into the shiny dome of RAFW organiser Simon Lock, as men with headsets and security T-shirts (you know, those self-important ones?) started to tell is all to leave the building (like the entire Overseas Passenger Terminal) as 'the shows will not be going ahead'.
So, I went and paid the power bill and there we were. Front row and ready to start.
Opposite me was Vogue's Kirstie Clements, with journo Nick Leys (Nick's job is to follow KC around for the week for the paper I used to work on, The Sunday Telegraph.)
I remember doing that same thing for that very paper with models, pop stars and celebs. But at least KC will actually have something to say . . . .
So with the power restored, Zimmermann's BitterSweet Nightshade collection wasn't full of the 'cossies' we've come to expect from the label but full of very pretty, easy and layered dresses, skinny trousers in caramel with the most exquisite twisted detailing right up the legs, lots of swinging sheer jackets and yes, a series of corset-inspired one piece cossies. I really liked it. This label, boy, what a stayer . . .
Oh, and by the way, as Pip and I drove from Dion to the Zimmer's, she told me she NOT an item with Sneaky Sound System's Damon Downey (just 'best friends') even though he did phone her while we were in the car :)
Catch you soon . . . off to do a few more shows _ Illionaire, Antipodium, Alpha 60 and some radio and tv . . . not about frock week, but about dressing for the Logies . . .
Looking forward to the Diet Coke Little Black Dress Show tonight . . . . I reckon the stars will be out for this one . . .

Zimmer end

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Zimmermann

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Zimmermann

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Dion. The man.

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Dion.... Those balmain shoulders again!

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Dion cont.....

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Dion lee. The collection so far. Excellence.

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Dion lee

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I am in kings cross car park waiting for dion lee show. Can,t c u junkie. Yet. foIMG00456.jpg

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Monday, April 27, 2009

Mr Cooper - - - Studio 54 is the only place to dance . . .

Wayne Cooper _ the man who hates publcity(not) managed to have his ex-partner and the mother of his divine kids, front row, and you know, that's what kinda of what life is about.
Sure, he has a new girlfriend, but it was great to see his ex-partner, Sarah Marsh, there with their two divine kids.
"We're talking now Melissa,'', he told me. "It's all going to be be okay,'' he continued after the show, at the Absolut party at the Bridge bar, in his honor.
Getting over the mum/dad thing and the children vibe, watching how the Cooper-Marsh kids enjoyed themelves and that loving 'look' for thier parents, said it all.
Stuff it. Being a single mother, I know what 'splits' can be like and I reckon this will all work out ok in the end.
Top models, Sarah Murdoch and Alex Perry (god I love that pair) were in shooting mode (the first show of their Fox8 happens on Thursday night on Foxtel)and they were twirling around with their 'charges'.
Alex Perry being apologetic but wise about the modelling industry that some may perceive as 'shallow'. No, who ever said that?
Wayne went 80s _ Farrah hair, leopard prints, pieces reminiscent of Halston's Studio 54 days (very Jerry Hall). Myer loved it.

My friend linlee allen

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Nicolla finetti.

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Nicola finetti. Yum. Orange.

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My other friend alex perryI

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My friends!

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Wayne andI muse, daughter ruby

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Wayne cooper

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Wayne cooper

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Wayne cooper audience

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Wayne cooper

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Emma lung and moi at camilla and marc. Shoulders pads rule, gold short bubble skirt and gold zips snaked up black skirts and dresses

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Fashion Week's first Morning Glory . . .

What has happened to Camilla and Marc?
At their spring/summer collection show this morning, they totally nailed it.
Sure, the siblings know that 'the shoulder' (that's fashion-ese for the size and shape of jacket shoulders) is extended, thanks to French house Balmain (and Dynasty's Alexis Carrington, aka Joan Collins) for that matter, who have been championing the trend for a while. In Joan's case, for a million years.
Thankfully my McCafe caffeine fix (odd, considering I don't even drink the stuff) had given me a lift that had lasted through th show. I'd twirled into Seven's Martin Place studios at 6am, so they could throw on the war-paint and adjust the locks, just in time to talk to Mel and Kochie about pollie's $$$$ perks, the return of LP (aka vinyl record) and the fact the ABC's 702 arvo man, Richard Glover was wearing a grey singlet under his shirt. Oh, and you get a free coffee while you're there.
Unfortunately, Rich's singlet was highly visible on national tv, so poor Rich took the 'singy' barbs and rolled with them.
I was more than happy for him to be my fashion week date to one of the shows . . . as long as he also made sure the brand of his undies were on show too.
Anyway, tv talk done and the my son (since when does a two week holiday extend to nearly three weeks?) schlepped down to the Overseas passenger terminal with for the first show - Camilla and Marc.
In amongst a sea of Carine Roitfeld look-a-likes, freshly blow-dried locks and paparazzi-ready faces (just in case their names end up in bold in the social pages) we sat, we saw and my son and I made a NBF in Scott Schuman, of The Sartorialist blog fame.
Well, that's 'fame' in fashion land and in the greater scheme of life, guess we're not exactly talking stem cell research here.
Anyway, mad about him, before the gorgeous actress Emma Lung was pushed our way, for a pic that (may or may not) appear as part of a Cosmo mag fashion week story. How damn sweet and genuine is she? Mad about her too.
We both agreed on Camilla and Marc's gold zips, that snaked up the backs and fronts of their black skirts, Herve Leger-tight dresses and tux jackets and their flashes of gold, all proving a perfect foil to their more subdued colour palette of flesh, creme and white. Yum all round really.
So as guests sized each other up and down (have never seen more YSL platform spikey boots in one precinct) I went the Paige jeans path; the Prada vintage silk shirt road with a black tie, a Gestapo-looking long fitted leather coat and some old Sergio Rossi alligator (inspired) boots. Well, I liked it.
Stay tuned for more . . .

or even modelfeed.com - a freudian slip before gang. tehehehe

MODELFEED

MYf gearing up for her press conference from modelfood.com

Sunday, April 26, 2009

So some care about fashion, others, well, couldn't give a . . .

You've gotta chuckle at all the primping and preening that must be going on by the Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW) set, many in that industry who still reckon it's kinda cool to be sporting the most expensive borrowed (or more likely 'gifted') 'It' bag over the next week.
Clothes, no doubt, have been begged, borrowed and hopefully not stolen (but who can actually afford to buy them nowadays anyway?) as they are laid down on beds in the inner city apartments tonight of our cute fashion-fry, as they try to work out which outfit will fall into the week's Fashion Halls of Fame and Shame. Meanwhile, my spag bol is coming along very nicely thanks very much.
Botox shots and various lip-enhancers ere probably administered about a week ago, so those perfct pouts will have just kicked in nicely by the time the first show (from Sydney duo Camilla & Marc) kicks off Monday morning at 10am, down at Sydney's glorious Overseas Passenger Terminal.
But you know what, it's always the guest who doesn't try too hard that looks the best. The one who has nothing to prove. No-one to suck up to. Are just happy with themselves and are not a slave to trends or trying to look like a tricked-up facsimile of what they think French Vogue editor-in-chief, Carine Roitfeld, may wear.
Let's say our beautiful, being-themsleves-in-their-own-style-looking guests of RAFW have the Susan Boyle Syndrome (SBS).
So it was with interest, as it always is, to check out some of the readers comments when I was reading a piece on http://www.news.com.au/ about this year's designers involved (or not) showing at fashion week.
The one thing that really got me were the tone of the website's reader's comments. And most weren't pretty. Kinda nasty, to be honest. The thing is, RAFW is basically a trade show, albeit one with pretty girls, a sometimes prettier audience and a slab of A & B celebs in the front rows to up the publicity factor.
The designers who show their collections are showcasing next top models of clothes for the coming spring/summer (which is still a long way off considering I'm only just hand-washing my black cashmere polo in time for this winter's wear) so the interest factor from 'real' people about next year's bikinis is understandably minimal.
'Why do people support this festival of vanity and narcissism? Its just an overflow from stupid celebrity culture which everyone should reject all together in favour of more worthwhile pursuits,' was posted by Baron Von Peasant of Working Class. Eeek.
'FASHION = HATE', said kEitHy of Dianella. Rightio. Got your message.
'Who cares - none of us real women wear this crap anyway. Real women with real lives are not small enough to fit into it even if they wanted to (which I don't). Even in the middle of a recession those who know how to dress will do so beautifully without the huge price tags', was posted by No Fashionista of Planet Earth.
Fortunatley there were some amusing ones too, this one particularly taking my fancy: 'Does anyone know why Alex Perry always appears with his sun glasses on the top of his head - is this meant to be a fashion statement ????' said Sue of Perth. (Well Sue, he did actually take them off his head just for me the other night when I was seated next to him at the chic marie claire fashion awards. And yes, there are permanent indentations on the sides of his head.)
But back to the general consensus of website comments, many seemed to treat local designers with pure disdain.
'There's no such thing as a big name in Australia. Didn't you guys read the memo? No-one outside of Australia gives a crap what we are doing,' posted Mike of Adelaide while 'Legends in their own minds. How about giving new Australian talent a wildcard entry - might make a refreshing change form some of these pompous people,' sent into news.com.au by dylan of Melbourne.
'I haven't heard of any of these so-called famous names. But then again I'm just the average bloke struggling to get through these hard times. Fashion is the last thing on my mind really. And I'm sure I'm not alone. I don't think the average Joe really cares about some hyped fashion-show', was posted by: Just an ordinary bloke of Adelaide.
'I don't think anybody will care about the length, colour, and material of the tops and dresses when there isn't food on the table when you get home! Fashion will be the last thing on the list (some would say off the list altogether) during recession,' said DS of WA.
And that, many would say, in these times, says it all.
But on the other hand, seeing handful of pretty girls ) Myf, Alyssa, Alice & Co in pretty dreses may just be the perfect tonic to help us, even for five days, think about anything but our personal GFC's! Bring it on, I say.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Getting a wardrobe on a budget

Getting a wardrobe on a budget

Fashion industry emerges as a TV star | The Australian

Fashion industry emerges as a TV star The Australian

Meet Juli Grbac, Project Runway winner - Shoes with news

Juli Grbac, the first Australian Project Runway winner - spoke to her back then and now's she gearing up for her first fashion week show, Thrsday, April 30

From A-Zoe: Up close with the ultimate stylist - Shoes with news

From A-Zoe: Up close with the ultimate stylist - Shoes with news

The Search For Hotel Nirvana

The Search For Hotel Nirvana . . . some of Australia's better hotels . . .

Best In Show

Best In Show . . . . .Byron Bay . . you gotta love it . . .

Packing Death

Packing Death - the art of packing to go away . . . . to a degree!

The Playlist: Showcase

The Playlist: Showcase

Jayson Brunsdon's cancer combat - exclusive interview





It was less than twelve months ago that I revealed leading designer Jayson Brunson was fighting cancer.


So just a few days before his fashion week show at RAFW, which happens on Sydney, Wednesday night, I spoke exclusively to him about his biggest challenge yet - his second battle with cancer.


I've conducted the exlusive interview for GRAZIA magazine, which is out in the stands today. Here's a taste of what you'll read.


The mood is upbeat and buzzy in Jayson Brunsdon’s Sydney studio as a gaggle of models wriggle into pieces from his new collection and the finishing touches are put to his fashion week show.
The designer is clearly enjoying being in the thick of it, bouncing around with a huge smile on his face and a head covered by one of what, he says, are a cupboard full of different-coloured Kangol caps.
But he is not wearing the hat to make a fashion statement.
He’s got it on to mask the effects of a recent gruelling 3 month bout of chemotherapy after doctors found that earlier treatment for the testicular cancer he was diagnosed with last June had failed to eradicate the disease.


COPING WITH CHEMO:


Until now, Jayson and his partner Aaron Elias, have only told their closest friends and family about the discovery and the news that he would need chemo.
But they have decided to reveal the news to me ahead of fashion week and the inevitable gossip about his health.
He was attending his usual round of monthly, post-operative check-ups in January when his doctor said he would need a round of chemotherapy, starting immediately.
As Jayson pragmatically puts it: “My doctors had found some cells they didn’t like and they wanted to get rid of them.”
He laughs as he recalls that his first question was: “Will I be finished treatment by fashion week?”
But the humour masks what has been the designer’s biggest health challenge yet.
He says: “I can tell you, chemo is everything people tell you it is like.
“It is absolutely draining and just horrible.
“You have to be as positive as you can about it too as so much about cancer is in your head, so I had to block any negativity out of my life. I am still learning to be positive about it.’’

THE FUTURE:


So what does the future hold? “I am now totally in remission after the chemo, so it’s really about me going every six months and checking that all is fine,” he says.
“But it certainly changes your attitude towards things and makes you re-evaluate things in your life.
“If anything, I am not to work as hard, that is for sure!
He credits his family and especially Aaron (who is also managing director of his fashion house) with helping him through the treatment – the couple have just celebrated ten years together.


HIS NEW COLLECTION:


Nevertheless, work has remained central to his life and the roller coaster of the last year has even inspired his new spring/summer collection, named Dorothy after his fashion-savvy and much-adored mum.
“From being sick last year and having my family and friends around me so much I started to think about the classic Australian woman,’’ he tells me.
“I wanted colour around me and didn’t want anything dark or tortured, as my year had been tortured enough.
“I took inspiration from my mum and was thinking about all of those simple shapes of clothes she wore to smart bbq’s and poolside parties.
“So there are lots of shirt-dresses and silk shantungs in easy skirts and shorts. And some simply elegant and beautiful long gowns in champagne silks.“I’ve also learned not to get so obsessed about what everyone else is doing. I do what I love and love what I do and that’s making women look beautiful.”


Jayson is also showcasing his new jewellery range at fashion week.
“There is something a little bit kitsch and a bit Australian about it all,” he says.
“It’s like you’ve gone to the Barrier Reef and bought some coral earrings and a necklace and bought them back as souvenirs.
“But they are darn nice souvenirs, I might add.”

Check out Grazia for more of the interview . . .

Friday, April 24, 2009

The frock week schedule ahead. . .

The frock week schedule ahead.


Well, well, here we go. Like a re-occuring colesore, Australian Fashion Week refuses to go away. And so it shouldn't. It is the one fashion event that really does celebrate and herald an industry that is more often thought of as trivial and turgid, not big and business-like. Which, of course, it is.

That's not to say there won't be some shockers. Or just some 'designers' who may have been best following another career path. But hey, we need the good and bad to try and disprove Darwin's theory.

We may all be poorer at the moment, oh, but so much happier . . . aren't we? (a subject I discussed in a Grazia mag story the other week) but the prospect of modules including Alice and Myf prancing down the runway in next summer's clothes may just take the edge off the GFC. And I don't mean the Great Fashion Crisis that you may be having as you gear up, hoping to be photographed for the visiting 'Sartorialist'.

God, can you imagine the try-hards, 'working back' their juxtaposing wardrobe pieces as they try to attract the attention of the chic, streetsmart snapper?

Camilla and Marc - the sibling act whose simply sensational horizontal-banded, pleated navy leather skirt was commented upon, ad nauseum, when I wore it in NYC the other week _ will kick it all off Monday morning, followed by Bec & Bridge, Ginger & Smart, a new designer group show, Arnsdorf, There Rawsthorne, Wayne Cooper and Nicola Finetti.


I spoke to Wayne recently, who certainly has his mojo back (in more ways than just fashion, so it seems) and after a few so-so collections, is out to prove a point with this show. His new menswear collection - leather biker jackets, trenches and some great fine knits have 'these will sell' all over them. Let's hope that's a ditto when his women's line comes out on Monday night.

My buddy, Kristy Hinze arrives in town Monday and she'll be be front row (natch) for her Project Runway tv mate, Jayson Brunsdon, the man who was also responsible for her 7 bridesmaid dresses. That show and the re-meeting of the pair is sure to be an emotional one . . . . . but more on that as the week goes on.

I'm not going to give you a a uni-sized thesis everyday on every little fashion piece I see, but will be tweetering updates and will give you my daily blog with my take on the people, the parties and you know what? Just anything that takes my fancy.

And having done every Oz fashion week for both newsapapers and tv commentary for what seemed a million years, I reckon I'm in a pretty good position to tell it like it really is.

A few designers that I've got something in my waters about are Dion Lee (showing in the Kings Cross car park, which is genius); NZ's Kate Sylvester and Karen Walker (doing a showing at Luxe studios); Kirrilly Johnston and Willow, Romance Was Born, Magdalena Velevska 9who worked with Nicola Finetti for ages) and then there's the Project Runway winner, the Brisbane based Juli Grbac. Now her first, serious solo collection should be promising.


And of course the Rosemount Bar, at the the fashion week venue of the Overseas Passenger Terminal versus the Absolut Bar in the Toaster (in the one time Cadmus munchery) will be reminiscent of the recent Absolut Swiss Grand parties at Bondi v. Ivy Pool show down that happened over summer. Can't wait for that battle of the brands.

So, parties, posers, possies and freeloaders and freaks. They'll all be there. It'll be fun. So stay tuned for The Fashion View - Missy style.